Thursday, August 8, 2013

Angry Chef on the Road: Soma StrEAT Food Park, San Francisco



The Little Red Riding Truck
Food trucks are very popular lately, and for good reason. Quick and convenient, but fresh enough to distinguish themselves from stereotypes about "fast food." Food trucks push boundaries and create opportunities for us to find cuisine which might be uncommon in our local restaurants. These funky mobile kitchens offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner - and small business owners win by having the advantage of being able to travel to your customers instead of getting them to come to you.

But why can't we get the best of both worlds?! Imagine my disappointment when I arrive on a lunch break, cash in hand, to the spot where a truck used to be, only to find the teasing aroma of bacon guacamole grilled cheese still lingers long after everyone has moved on. Disappointment has never been so hungry!

Three thousand miles from my home in San Francisco, Soma StrEAT Food Park has the solution to my tardiness. It's the first permanent food truck pad in the city, the original go-to spot for those times when you want to get your friends to try some Peruvian ceviche, but you want some BBQ or even a mochi donut. You could never track down these many different dishes at once, and here they are, all parked in a circle around an inviting patio and a schoolbus-turned-party room. Their website advertises a rotating list of vendors, and on the foggy morning we decided to head over we found all of those things, plus German food Korean fusion, and bottomless mimosas. Yes, I mean bottomless - this was thoroughly tested.

Our first bite came from BOB CHA, a Korean food truck offering - wait, I can't bear to use the exhausted term fusion food. Really, it was mostly standard Korean flavors with some inventive delivery methods, making the food fun to eat but still satisfyingly familiar. Except the bacon fried rice. That part was just awesome.
Mandoooo potstickers in a saucy sea.


The Mandooo potstickers were rolled longer and thinner than others I've had, and they came smothered in sweet chili flavored "spicy sauce." We chose pork - most choices on their menu are available with a choice of chicken, pork, or bulgogi.







The coolest looking thing on the menu is the Bob Burrito - bulgogi, spicy bacon fried rice,  lettuce, egg, and kimchi all wrapped in a flour tortilla. Ours was huge and full of juicy, meaty, kimchi goodness. 


Also in the mix was the Little Red Riding Truck, serving up German food with sides of crunchy krautsalad. We shared some rich cheese spätzle - a type of egg noodle dish made by boiling the dumplings before frying them up for a little bit of texture.
Although our party was definitely slowing down (thanks in part to those bottomless mimosas), we opted for some schnitzel with bacon-fried potatoes. The meat was tender and the crust was so satisfying - especially with a drizzle of lemon juice! My only wish was for a the potatoes to have a little more texture - another couple minutes in the pan would have been perfect.


Our final stop was at El Calamar, a Peruvian truck whose tempting wares included lomo saltado (beef stir-fry) and a beef tripe and chicken gizzard dish for those who like a little experimental eating. We had a generous helping of ceviche, uniquely accentuated with baked sweet potato. I haven't had potato with ceviche before and was hesitant for a very brief second, but the sweetness of the potato is a wonderful compliment to the dish's acidity.


Last but not least comes papas rellenas, a traditional Peruvian stuffed potato dish. Ours had egg and ground beef. The precious few bites I had of this were heavenly - the texture of the potato is crispy on the outside and fluffy but not oily on the inside. Warm and toasty, and a perfect end to our food truck extravaganza. 

We had a great time at the park and left almost-too-full. If you find yourself in San Francisco, be sure to check out Soma StrEAT Food Park's ever-changing lineup. You can find them on Facebook with a list of their latest vendors, or on their website. We'll be sure to make this a routine stop next time we're in the Bay area!

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Crispy Fried Capers



I love fried capers. If we're being honest, I love them more than their un-fried brethren. Raw capers are pickled and tend to have a briny, overpowering flavor. A few too many in a pasta carbonara, and the subtler flavors of the dish are washed away in a sea of acid. 

As if by magic, just a few minutes in hot oil transforms these little guys into something special. Now the persistent vinegar flavor is calmed and contained by the crispy outer shell. Every bud packs a powerful explosion of salt and vinegar-y goodness, perfect for lightening creamy white wine-based dishes and seafood of all kinds. You can use them to brighten up the flavors in steak tartare, or throw 'em on top of a fresh salad. We've used them before, in our smoked salmon Mother's Day brunch

These are so easy to make, and their addition to any classic dish is not easily forgotten. One of the greatest lessons of my career thus far is that simplicity often goes farther than one might think. In the words of my mentors: "Don't overthink it, stupid."

So here it is, nice and simple. 

Crispy Fried Capers
When I use fried capers, I usually only use a few pinches, so for this recipe we are using an 1/8th cup. You can fry as many as you would like as long as they are broken up into small batches.
  • 1/8 cup capers
  • 1/4 cup vegetable or peanut oil (enough to coat a small frying pan)
Dry your capers with a paper towel and set aside.

Heat oil on medium-high heat. I used a smaller frying pan to do this, but a deep fryer at 350º will also work.

Drop in capers - watch the splatter! Fry for 2-3 minutes until they have crisped up and place on paper towels to drain excess oil.


That's it! Easy right? On this particular day, I added my crispy fried capers to some seared cod sandwiches. A squeeze of lemon and we're good to go!


Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Fish 'n Cheese: Seared Salmon and Pepper Chèvre


Fish and cheese is an often under-appreciated combination. Sure, you'll throw some on a tuna sandwich, but when was the last time you sprinkled parmesan on your baked stuffed whitefish? If such a combination is new for you, we have just the recipe to get you started. This summery pasta dish combines the crispy seared salmon with creamy goat cheese, all on top of some more cheesy pasta. Tomatoes, spinach, and herbs lend texture and the flavors are enhanced with a squeeze of lemon juice at the finish. A crowd pleaser for sure!

Fish 'n Cheese: Seared Salmon and Pepper Chèvre
  • 2 tbsp canola oil
  • 2 tbsp garlic shallot mix
  • 2 roma tomatoes, diced
  • 2 handfuls raw spinach
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • 1 tbsp fresh thyme
  • 1 tbsp fresh oregano
  • 8 oz flat pasta
  • 1/2 cup pasta water
  • 1/2 cup cream
  • 3/4 cup aged manchego cheese, grated
  • 1/4 cup parmesan cheese, shredded
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 4 oz goat cheese (we used Sgt. Pepper from Cypress Grove Chevre, a peppery cheese from one of our favorite companies.)
  • squeeze of lemon

Cook pasta and reserve water. 

Preheat oven to 500° F

Season raw salmon with salt and pepper.

Heat saute pan on medium high heat with 2 tbsp oil until smoking. Place salmon skin side down and cook until skin is evenly dark brown and crispy. 2/3 of the salmon will have changed color, which is how you know you can flip it. Place in oven for 3-5 minutes. 

Heat a second saute pan with 2 tbsp oil until smoking. Add garlic-shallot mix and spinach. Once spinach has wilted, add white wine and allow to simmer for 3 minutes. Add herbs and cooked pasta. Toss and add cream, parmesan cheese, and manchego cheese. Add tomatoes, then salt, pepper to taste.

Top salmon with a dollop of goat cheese and a squeeze of lemon. Garnish with herbs and parmesan cheese.